Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Teaching English, learning Thai

We arrived in Pattaya on Sunday, July 23rd, in the evening and went directly to check in our hotels. The boys stayed in LanguageCorps Asia’s hotel and Gayla, Vicky and I stayed at the Green Vale, a hotel down the block. We were at the 3rd, 4th and 5th floors and had to drag our good-for-a-year luggage all the way up, since most hotels here are not your conventional establishment with elevators or bellboys. This hotel does not even have a reception desk. If you need help, you need to call a number posted on the wall.

Ten minutes after putting away our bags we were all at the classroom creating lesson plans for the next day. We started teaching on Monday morning. Our driver picked us up at the hotel and took us to our respective schools. Vicky and Steve did not come because they were assigned to teach at schools nearby the hotels. The other schools were a lot further: first we dropped Sam off, after driving half an hour; then Alex, a few minutes later; then it was my turn, almost one hour after leaving the hotel; and last were Gayla, Brian and Don, who were in the same school, at about ten minutes from mine. In our way to school we passed some rural areas, new developments, an elephant training center, a dinosaur park, the mountains, the sea… All this we saw, from the covered back of the pickup truck, aka: our taxi.
Ride back from school

Although we were nervous about our first day teaching, everyone got back in the back of the truck filled with the great energy from the children. Thai kids are just so excited to see you! You can be teaching anything and they will just love you the same. They greet you with smiles, handshakes, hugs and high-fives. The teachers are also loving and appreciative and always fed us (especially to Alex, who got several meals each morning).

Our daily routine consisted in doing our teaching practice in the mornings, having a quick lunch, taking Thai classes and doing lesson planning for the next day in the afternoons. Even though our group got a lot smaller we nonetheless had a great time together. Vicky and Steve, who did not want to join us for the social activities, still entertained us during classes with their peculiarities. We will never forget Vicky’s constant complaints or Steve’s constant confusion or how they both treated each other as if they had been married for many years.

Fun in Party Land

Following the crazy weekend in Sihanoukville I felt closer to my new friends and less strict about my self-imposed routine. Several times in the next two weeks we visited Walking Street, a pedestrian section of the street parallel to the ocean infested by tourists (mostly Russians) where anything relating to sex is sold: “pussy shows” (in which skilled ladies perform mesmerizing tricks with their vaginas, such as shooting darts, playing ping pong, and mixing drinks), all kinds of services done by women or ladyboys, phallic-shaped lighters and key chains, and other interesting things. On the same street there are also many bars, food stands, children making contortions for a few Bahts, owners of lemurs offering you to get a picture with them, tacky clothing vendors, loud music and colorful lights.

On the Thursday of the first week we had dinner at a Korean restaurant and Don and I stayed in the area to watch live Thai boxing. It was pretty amusing but we decided to leave when it was the turn of a couple of very young kids to fight. On Friday we all decided to venture to a more local scene than the one in Walking Street. We walked a little further on the coast and found a quaint restaurant on the ocean. Sat at one of the tables on the sand, we ate under the open night sky, hugged by a warm breeze. In the way back we stayed at a bar, also sat in the open air. Hookah, beers, sweet alcoholic concoctions and wonderful friends! We did some pull-ups from the pipes of a metallic pergola by our table and tasted crickets from one of the street vendors. The night ended, inevitably, at Walking Street, in one of the bars were the ladies strive to make both men and women have a fun night and compulsorily buy drinks for them. The group split and I came back to the hotel with Gayla, while the boys got lost in another club.
Dinner by the beach

We planned an unforgettable weekend, since it was our last one together. We took a boat to Koh Larn, an island at one-hour ride off the coast of Pattaya Beach. From the main harbor we rode motorcycles to Samae, a small beach of the most turquoise and warmest water I have ever seen or felt. The only hotel in the area looked like a kindergarten, painted in many bright colors. We rented two rooms for the night. In the afternoon we swam, jumped in the waves, walked through rocks and climbed boulders overlooking the ocean, drank from pineapples, and relished in our freedom. In the evening we watched the Olympics with some Thais at a bar, ate delicious food and walked by the beach. The next day, after more swimming and a bicycle ride, we took the boat back to the mainland. I absorbed each moment to its fullest. In a few days, there would not be any ocean, any sand, neither these friends… When each day looks the same, you take everything around you for granted. At this paradise, each minute felt so ephemeral and so glorious.
Kho Larn

The next week passed by as quickly and as intensely as a summer storm -a very valid metaphor in a tropical country during the rainy season.

On Tuesday Brian, Don and I visited the Sanctuary of Truth, an all-wood building filled with sculptures based on traditional Buddhist and Hindu motifs. It was started by the businessman Lek Viriyaphant in 1981, and is scheduled to be complete in 2025. As you come down from the entrance and spot this temple, which sits by the ocean, you get the impression that it is not real. Its image-rich wooden frame is from another world.  
The Sanctuary of Truth :)

Our last day teaching at the schools was Wednesday. As everything that ends, it had its bitter-sweet taste. On Thursday we practice teaching one-to-one classes at Steve’s school. At night, after a three-hour spa session with a ladyboy, I met Don for dinner at the fancy Mantra restaurant, a huge place with five different kitchens featuring Thai, Japanese, Chinese, Korean and Indian food. We ate some of the best sushi ever, drank Argentine malbec, and tasted the desert sample. The night was long and I was barely awake for our graduation lunch the next day.

Our teachers, Jam and Amie, took us to a hot pot restaurant where one creates her own meal from foods that pass by on a conveyor belt. So much fun! After a long nap I met my friends again, for out last night together. We had dinner at the French restaurant across the street from the hotel with other three teachers that came by the school. We ended up scattering around town. The next morning I got up early, again sleep deprived, and left quietly and swiftly. I just could not handle any more goodbyes…
Our AWESOME teachers, Jam and Amie

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