The two sides

Khao Rang, where I often go for walks, has two very different sides. I mostly climb the one that I call the bright side. It is more open and the sun filters through the trees. In the mornings it is always misty, as the sun evaporates the constantly humid air. From the viewpoint, the city looks hazy.

My favorite is walking down in the evenings. Phuket View, the restaurant that is half way up the hill, lights little red lights wrapped around a few trees. Somehow it brings me back to my first Christmas in the States, riding in the Jacquemins’ car, the weather dead cold outside while thousands of colorful lights lightening the thick forest.

The street dogs know me and do not mind me. Some humans also recognize me and sawadee me. This side is safe and encourages creative thoughts.

A few times I have ventured into the dark side. The sun is invisible there, as the foliage is wild. The road is much steeper and wavier and you never know what you are going to find behind the next curve.

One morning that I felt particularly audacious I went down the dark side. On my way back, on the middle of the road a huge dog barked like if possessed by the devil, saliva dripping wild from his threatening jaws. Shaking by that horror, I had to go back down and walk around the hill to return home.

Not far from the location of the devil dog there is a house of the spirits cemetery. Houses of the spirits are found at many homes and commercial establishments since they are supposed to protect the residents. They are colorful little houses placed on tall altars and filled with images of little humans and other different characters. Just as in many other cultures, these “pagan” images mix with the official religion to give extra protection and fortune to the people. Apparently, when they are old enough, one can dispose of his at a proper cemetery like the one on the dark side of Khao Rang. It is an unsettling sight to see the crushed images, the broken pieces and the spirits scattered around.

House of the Spirits - Chiang Mai

Even though it would be safer to stay on the bright side, the dark path down the hill calls me once in a while. I guess that making it into the deep dark side of things at times is enlightening, in a way.